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Dumby
on Sea
pic: Dave MacLeod |
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Dave
MacLeod on Commercial Route, 4c
pic: Richard McGhee |
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History
(1993-2000)
Throughout the first part of the 1990s, the Dumbarton scene
was dominated by perhaps its most loyal and productive activist,
Andy Gallagher. Around 1993, Andy was transforming Dumby (and
Dumbuck) into a modern and highly developed venue. Sport routes
like Awaken (7c+) and Sufferance (8a) were at the forefront
of Scottish sport climbing, as well as being classic lines.
On the infamous boulders, Andy was also adding testpieces such
as Mugsy Traverse (Font 7b) and the bold solo of Trick of the
Vale (E7 6c), which went unrepeated for five years. In 1994
the classic Consolidated Traverse
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| The
last couple of years, especially 2000 have seen a renewed
interest in Dumbarton, with an ever expanding band of
climbers enthusiastically working through the problems. |
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(Font
7b+) was added which must be one of the best traverses anywhere
in the UK.
Around this time Malcolm Smith brought a new level with The
Shield, Dumby's first 7a. This was repeated by Andy G, who went
on to add further testpieces with the desperate Voodoo Magic
(8b) at Dumbuck which resisted several attempts to repeat it
from locals. After seeing a repeat from a Frenchman, Voodoo
was reclimbed in 2000 by Dave MacLeod after losing all its best
holds and the starting ledge. Malcolm Smith's other desperate
from this period; the BNI direct start is still unrepeated and
is probably modestly graded at 6c!
During 1996 an up and coming local 17 year old ("Dumby") Dave
Macleod worked hard to make second ascents of the hardest problems
of the time as well as numerous other problems. During the late
90s, he added many more desperate problems such as the modern
classic In Bloom (Font 7c) and the unrepeated Elbow Basher (Font
7b+). However the hardest problem to date came again from Malcolm
Smith, beating the locals to claim the first ascent of the sit
start to Pongo at Font 8a. After many days (years) of effort
this received a second ascent in 2000 from Dumby Dave.
The last couple of years, especially 2000, have seen a renewed
interest in Dumbarton with an ever expanding band of climbers
enthusiastically working through the problems. Several new lines
have also been found by the regular activists as well as by
newcomers to the scene. Contributions from the young and talented
"Baggy" Mike Conner include Railing (6a) and Shin Sekai (6c).
Others such as Neil Busby, Dave Redpath, "Geordie" Mike Rudden,
Darren Stevenson and "Irish" John Watson have all contributed
new lines recently. Dave MacLeod polished off the project of
So Be It (8a+) at Dumbuck before fulfilling a long held ambition
to lead Requiem (E8 6b) placing all the gear on lead.
Several unclimbed lines (some classics) remain on the boulders
as well as on the face. These will provide new challenges for
a good while to come for those who can take on the challenge,
while others will continue to enjoy the wealth of brilliant
climbing at the rock.
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