Routes

The North Face
This is the wall above the alleyway path which leads to the boulders. The wall is very dirty and almost all of the routes here have been ignored for years and are in a poor state. For this reason, only a few of the most worthwhile routes have been included. If you wish to fight with dirty rock and wet turf on the other routes consult the "Lowland Outcrops" guide.


1. Antigrav E3 6a* 30m Willie Todd 1970s
This is the smooth wall and thin hanging finger crack towards the left of the face. Climb the unprotected wall direct to the crack. Climb the well protected crack with difficulty and continue to belay (very) well back.


2. Supple as a brick E4 5c 35m T. Prenice 1988
Steep, technical and serious. Start up the huge gully (Monsoon Gully) then move out right to a good jug on the right wall (friend 1.5). Climb the steep groove above (poor RPs) then use a small overlap to reach better holds. Continue to a ledge and belay. Move two metres left and climb interesting grooves to the top.


3. Ganglion Grooves VS 4c 20m
This route lies at the left edge of the west facing wall above the trees at the end of the alleyway. Start just right of the ivy covered wall and follow cracks and grooves to the top.


4. Snowhite E2 5b** 20m W. Todd 1970s
This good route climbs the thin crack in the centre of the west facing wall. Start right of a corner and pull left onto a slab. Climb steeply towards the base of the crack and finish up this. Bold and strenuous.


North-West Face
This awe-inspiring face is home to some of Scotlands finest crack climbs as well as numerous other classic traditional and sport routes, which have a reputation for being bold, exposed and intimidating.


1. Stonefall Wall E4 6a 10m Andy Gallagher 1990s
This climbs the steep, cracked wall on the extreme left of the face.


2. Eliminator E6 6a/b* 15m Andy Gallagher 1993
Start at the same point as Route Three. Climb up and turn a small roof on the left. Move right to the arete and boldly climb this to a horizontal break. Climb a faint crack in the headwall to the top.


3. Route Three HVS 5b* 15m B. Shields 1965
At the left side of the wall is a crack topped by a square roof. Climb the crack to the roof, traverse left, and finish up the chimney.


4. Stonefall Crack HVS 5a** 20m Neil Macniven 1963
The wide crack Below the chimney is climbed either direct, or with a deviation out left at mid height to finish up the chimney. Big cams or hexes useful.


5. The Big Zipper E3 5b** 30m M. Hamilton 1983
After the serious first pitch, the corner above the ledge gives an excellent pitch of bridging and finger jamming, with good protection.
1. 15m 5b Climb Stonefall crack until it is possible to traverse right along the ledge to belay in the base of the corner.
2. 15m 5b Continue up the excellent corner (bolt belay).


6. Payback Time! 7b+ 15m Andy Gallagher 1990s
This is the bolt line on the wall to the left of The Big Zipper. Either abseil down the corner and belay, or climb a small groove (RPs) left of Woops to reach the start.


7. Woops E4 6a* 15m D. Cuthbertson 1980
Difficult technical climbing up the short overhanging finger crack right of Stonefall Crack. Climb the crack to the ledge and finish up Big Zipper.


8. Omerta 7c*** 30m Andy Gallagher 1993
The stunning and exposed left arete of the main wall. Climb the direct start to The Big Zipper via a desperate move then continue up the technical arete.

9. Chemin De Fer E5 6a*** 30m D. Cuthbertson 1980
One of the finest Crack lines in Scotland and a testpiece at the grade. The crack has hard moves in the first half, then eases very slightly towards the top. However, there is excellent protection. Bolt belay at the top.

NEW: Achemine E9 6c*** 30m Dave MacLeod 2001
A spectacular line on the headwall above Chemin De Fer giving desperate and very bold climbing. Scotland's first E9 and currently hardest trad route. Follow Chemin de Fer to where the crack bends left. Move up through a small overlap and traverse right to a tiny groove. Climb rightwards using the groove with desperate moves to gain a rounded sidepull. Use this to rockover back left and follow a desperate sequence leftwards (crux) to gain a half moon shaped edge. Move up and left to a good finishing jug.

10. Requiem E8 6b*** 35m D. Cuthbertson 1983
The central crack line remains one of the very hardest routes in Scotland and has only had five ascents (to 2000). The route has recently had a lead placing all gear on the redpoint (all previous ascents have involved high yoyos or completely preplaced gear). May have been the world's hardest route when first done!
From a bolt belay on the ledge, climb the crack with hard moves at its top, then follow the line of holds leading right on the headwall (bold). If you get that far, do battle with the crux last move!


11. Rock Of Ages E3 6a* 20m Gary Latter 1983
The rising traverse line from below The Big Zipper to the base of Requiem is now rather bold since the pegs have rotted away (RP3 in flake at the crux). Finish at the bolt belay on the ledge.


12. Dumb And Dumber E7 6c** 20m Dave MacLeod 1999
An extremely thin wall/slab climb. Start up the slab just right of Chemin De Fer to stand on an obvious perched block. Place a good nut at hip height in the groove on the left, take a deep breath, and teeter boldly up the blank slab above direct. A razor thin move leads to a finish up Rock Of Ages.


13. Persistence Of Vision 7b*** 15m Andy Gallagher 1997
This recent addition is now the most popular sport route in the area. Low in the grade. Follow the line of bolts on the slab directly below Requiem to a lower off. Moving out left then back right at the fourth bolt is the crux.


14. Requiem Direct Start E3 5b 15m B. Masterton 1983
This serious pitch up the lower wall is now very dirty and ignored.


15. Cyclops E5 6b 35m D. Cuthbertson 1981
This technical route up the big corner on the right of the main face is also very much in need of a brushing to restore its quality. May be E6 in the near future when the peg rots away.

1. 20m 5b Climb the virtually unprotected lower corner past some dubious rock to a bolt belay on the ledge.

2. 15m 6b Difficult bridging leads to the poor peg. More hard moves lead to an easier finish up the well protected crack. Either abseil off from here or climb the small (dirty) corner leading left to the top of the face.


16. Dum Dum Boys 8a** 23m Andy Gallagher 1995
An excellent sport climb running the height of the smooth right wall. Move up the corner and onto the right wall. A hard move gains the base of the long ramp which is followed (sustained) to the ledge. Continue up the easier upper wall past another shake out to the top.


17. Sufferance 8a*** 18m Andy Gallagher 1993
A first class sport route up the very smooth wall just to the right. The route is sustained and technical on small edges, with a traverse at half height being the crux.


18. Tarrier 7c+ 18m M. McGowan 1993
When someone gets round to replacing all the hangers on this line, it will become a good route again!


19. Fever Pitch E4 5c* 25m N. Colton 1970s
An exciting but serious pitch with some dirty rock and the odd rattling hold. The crux is much harder than anything else on the route. Start just right of the left arete of the butress. Climb straight up to a resting place at the horizontal break (large friend). Climb past the thin crack beside the roof (crux) and finish rightwards up the wall above.


20. Fatso E4 5c* 30m Dave MacLeod 1998
An exposed and bold wall climb, but not too technical. Follow Fever Pitch to the horizontal break then take a rising traverse across the wall to the right pointing spike. Move up and right then back left across the wall (crux) to finish as for Fever Pitch.


21. Longbow E1 5b*** 30m S. Belk 1960s
Exhilarating and well protected climbing up the steep left hand corner. Much better than it looks from below. Exit right at the top.


22. Appliance Of Violence 7b 7m B. McLaughlan 1993
The bolted overhanging arete to the right of Longbow has a hard crux involving the drilled Mono. Ouch!


23. Desperado HVS 5a* 30m B. Shields 1970s
Good climbing in the central hanging corner, but poorly protected in the middle section. Climb Windjammer for 10m, traverse left and climb the central corner. The traverse line can be reached by a direct start on steep grooves (Eldorado E3 5c).


24. Gaucho E2 5c 30m W. Todd 1970s
A poor attempt on the big arete left of Desperado. The line is presently very dirty and has little protection. From the traverse on Desperado, move diagonally left to the arete and up to the lowest part of a small overlap. Move right into Desperado, continue to the large overhang then traverse left to finish at the same point as Longbow.


25. Windjammer Crack HVS 5a*** 30m B. Shields 1964
A classic sustained pitch up the soaring right hand corner. Again the climbing is considerably better than it looks. Well protected (large friends useful for the lower section).


26. Bad Attitude 7b* 18m Andy Gallagher 1993
On the wall to the right of Windjammer, the left hand bolted line gives technical climbing.


27. Half Breed 7b** 18m C. Phair 1993
The central line takes the shallow groove, pulling leftwards from a flat hold to join Bad Attitude above the roof.


28. Unforgiven 7b*** 18m Andy Gallagher 1993
The right hand line is the best of the three, with blind, technical climbing.


29. Friends In High Places E4 6a** 35m 35m Dave MacLeod 1998
This technical and sustained route starts down to the right of the everdry wall below an overhung niche. Climb leftwards from the niche, then back right past a series of overlaps to a difficult exit right (crux). Move right then finish up a series of easy vegetated grooves. May have been climbed before.


30. Benny's Route (left hand) 7b 7m G. Sutcliffe 1994
The overhanging wall at the end of the grass shelf has a bolt line running in between two separate lines. Follow the bolts to the alarming third bolt then move left and climb the steep arete on good holds to the lower off.


31. Benny's Route (right hand) 7c* 7m John Dunne 1993
From the third bolt make hard moves rightwards then follow the faint fault to the lower off. Don't even try to clip the fourth bolt!


32. Natural Born Drillers 7a* 8m C. Phair 1996
From the edge of the shelf, follow the diagonal line of bolts across the wall to a crack. Climb this and use a finger lock over the bulge to pull over (crux) and reach the lower off. Regularly failed on.


33. Knees And Toes, Knees And Toes E4 5c 40m Dave MacLeod 1998
Technical and pumpy. From the edge of the shelf (no clipping any bolts!) traverse horizontally right to a tiny pod (friend 0.5). Climb straight up almost to Drillers (friend 5 very useful), then traverse right and climb the arete until it is possible to traverse left on a slab into a steep corner. Climb the corner, then finish up vegetated grooves.


West Face
This section of the crag, like the North Face, is broken and gives generally poor routes by comparison to the main face. Only the best routes have been described. Consult the Lowland Outcrops guide if you like fighting with vegetation. The climbs are described from left to right, starting from the deep gully 15 metres right of the previous climbs. These climbs can still be accessed when the tide is in by traversing in above the water.


1. Easter Rib Severe*** 20m Andy Gallagher 1999
On the left side of the gully as you approach Casanostra, there is a rib on the left side of a small corner with a roof in it. Climb the rib direct on good holds, finishing slightly left at the top. Brilliant!


2. Casanostra 6c+** 10m Andy Gallagher 1997
This good little route can be found hiding on the right wall of the deep gully. It was very popular for a while but people seem to have forgotten its there! Interesting laybacking leads to a hard move followed by an easier finish on good holds. Starting from further left up the gully reduces the grade.


3. Plunge Difficult*** 30m L. Mitchell 1960s
An excellent climb in a good situation and on good rock. Also a handy access route to the top of the crag. Best done when the tide is in. Start at the large mooring ring and follow steepening grooves in the clean rock rib to the castle wall. Avoid this on the right and finish on the balcony. Abseil off or continue up and left and abseil off the main face for extra enjoyment!


4. Pinky VS 4b* 12m
About 20 metres to the right is a small crag below the castle wall with a central overhang and grooves to either side. This route climbs the left hand groove.


5. Still Going VS 5a* 12m
This route climbs the lower right hand groove and the overhang from the right. Much easier than it looks.


6. Perky HS 4b 12m
This route follows the right hand groove all the way.


7. Banana Rib Very Difficult 15m
Further right at the same level is another crag with a prominent black groove on the left and a grey coloured wall to the right. This climbs the straightforward rib left of the black groove.


8. Banana Groove VS 4c 15m
Climb the black groove, moving right at the top.


9. Grey Wall E4 5c* 15m Gary Latter 1983
A serious solo up the grey wall to the right. There is no protection and the crux is at the top. High in the grade and is being reclaimed by ivy.


Dumbuck
This good sport climbing venue lies one mile away from Dumbarton Rock. The routes climb the large overhang on the craggy face to the right of the huge quarry. The easier routes here are well worth checking out, but the routes on this crag are mainly in the harder grades and have excellent climbing, which stays dry in heavy rain. The routes are generally short, powerful and very sustained, being about 45-50 degrees overhanging.


Approach
If approaching by car, take the A82 from Glasgow to Dumbarton. Follow the dual carriageway past the Little Chef and the quarry entrance and turn right at traffic lights opposite the Hotel. Drive up the hill through the housing estate and park. Walk across fields to reach the crag.


1. Filth Infatuated 5+ R Murphy 1997
This uninspiring route climbs the bolted groove to the left of the overhanging face. The name says it all.


2. Project
The left-most line of bolts on the overhanging face.


3. Voodoo Magic 8b** Andy Gallagher 1996
This excellent sustained route is the hardest on the crag. Harder and better since the loss of a jug at halfway and the ledge at the start (!). Has now been re-climbed at the same grade.


4. Awaken 7c+*** Andy Gallagher 1992
The classic of the crag. Powerful moves lead to the obvious spiky jug. A hard move from a sloper gains easier climbing and the amazing "thank god" finishing jug. The second and third bolts are very difficult to clip and would benefit from replacement.


5. Flesh for Fantasy 7c** Cameron Phair 1994
Another excellent sustained climb with no hard moves but good climbing.


6. If Six Was Nine 7c** Cameron Phair 1992
Powerful undercutting leads to a hard move near the top. Harder since the loss of a resting jug.


7. Parallel 7c Andy Gallagher 1995
The line just to the right of If Six Was Nine, again has a powerful start on undercuts and a technical finish.


8. House of Pain 7c+** Andy Gallagher 1996
The line through the amazing scoop. Thin climbing leads to a hard jump for an undercut in the roof. The finish is easier but brilliantly steep!

NEW: Dirty Sanchez 7c+** Mike Rudden 2001
Start up Gentle Mass, but follow the scoop with unusual contortions to gain and finish up House of Pain.

9. Gentle Mass 7c* Andy Gallagher 1992
This climbs the wall just right of the scoop. Rather longer than most of the Dumbuck routes but with hard moves too!


10. Project
This looks desperate, and loose.


11. Project
The small scoop and faint crack will be a three star 8c some time in the future!


12. So Be It 8a+/8b*** Dave MacLeod 2000
The rightwards slanting ramp is a brilliant power route. Straightforward climbing gains the obvious jug. From here, traverse the ramp rightwards and make desperate moves on tiny edges and pinches. Holding the swing when you inevitably have to cut loose from the toe hook is the crux.


13. Second Sight 7c+* Dave Redpath 1998
Another short but very sharp power route which is essentially a direct version of Tragically Hip. Desperate bouldering!


14. Twister 7a+ Darren Stevenson 1997
A hard move at the start leads to a difficult traverse left on undercuts. A good variation is to carry on upwards to finish up the next route at 7a.


15. Tragically Hip 6c+** John Jones 1997
A good route which works its way leftwards across the short overhang into a niche and then finishes up the wall with good varied climbing.


16. Unamed 6b+*
A difficult, blind starting move over the bulge leads to pleasant climbing up the slab.


17. Call of the Wild HVS 4c D. MacLeod, R. McGhee 2000
Loose (on a grand scale!) and mostly unprotected. From the lower of of the previous route, traverse right then follow a ramp to beneath an overhang. Pull over this and continue easily to the top of the rock.