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The corrie
has loads to offer at all grades, from easy gullies and short ice springs
to challenging hanging icicles. More recently, the excellent mid grade
mixed climbing potential has been developed. The mixed routes are heaven
for the turf bashing enthusiast, so take plenty of warthogs! A large number
of excellent new routes still remain to be climbed, both hard and easier
mixed lines of excellent quality and a few lingering ice lines if you
know where (and when) to look.
Beinn Udlaidh is most popular with mid grade ice climbers (grade IV to
VI) and the classics here are a must on any climber's hit list. However,
don't waste a good day out waiting behind another party! Not only are
there plenty of other routes at every grade which are just as good without
the crowds but there is usually time for two or even three routes in a
day, so just come back in the afternoon after warming up on something
else! Here is a run down of Ben Udlaidh's "other classics" which you won't
have to queue for.
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The
ultra-classic Quartzvein Scoop IV,4.
Pic: Ken Crocket
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Grade
I and II
Beginners
looking to experiment with new tools and get started will find excellent
short ice walls for bouldering, toproping and learning to use screws at
the left end of the lower band of icefalls near the base of the corrie.
The Land of Make Believe II,2 is an excellent line taking an amenable
line on the most impressive section of the corrie by some excellent easy
angled water ice pitches. Several different, more direct starts are possible
on excellent ice, upping the grade a little. Horny Ridge I is a good exposed
turf route with good positions for the aspiring turf warrior.
Grade III
Ice Crew
III,3 and more especially Sunshine Gully III,3 are often very popular
at weekends. For more quietude try the deeply cut West Gully III,3 or
its more sustained icy neighbour White Caterpillar III,3. If you are looking
to try a grade III, which is easily escapable or the weather is awful
and you want to salvage something, try the icy watercourse on the extreme
right end of the corrie.
Grade
IV
There are
loads of classic ice lines to tick at this grade. Doctor's Dilemma and
Quintet IV,4 never have queues but take much more adventurous and scenic
ground than the corrie's most popular route Quartzvein Scoop. The recent
mixed addition Mustang Sally IV,4 taking the big rectangular buttress
right of Green Eyes gives brilliant turfy corner climbing, with excellent
belays and protection. Cut It IV,4 takes the obvious ramp line cutting
through the popular hard routes on the steep Black Wall, finishing up
the final pitch of The Croc. The route passes through the most impressive
rock and ice scenery of the corrie with a great top pitch, although it
may prove bit of a rope tangle if other parties are on the straight up
lines.
Grade V
The classic
Vs of the Black Wall are "must dos" on any ice fanatic's tick list, they
are totally unmissable! However, to avoid the crowds, head for the magnificent
Organ Pipe Wall V,5. This route has atmosphere in spades and is a steep
challenge at the grade. Taking the Bait V,5 is also an interesting line
which deserves more attention. The corrie has only one mixed V at present
but the scope for more is quite extensive if you know where to look. One
obvious challenge is the big corner on the right wall of the gorge leading
to Organ Pipe Wall. Blitz V,6 is an excellent recent addition taking the
short but impressive buttress left of Central Gully. It follows the obvious
diagonal weakness to the top in one pitch. Beware - it is much steeper
than it looks!
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First ascent of Blitz, V,6.
Pic: Macleod Collection |
Grade
VI
Captain
Hook VI,6 is often ignored when it's not in full condition.
This is a shame as it is often climbable and better value for the grade!
The true finish to Cut
Throat VI,6 is rarely formed. The popular variation is to climb
the excellent first pitch, then continue up the often formed smaller fang
just to the right at about V,6. Incisor
VI,6 described in the story above gives an excellent technical
mixed pitch followed by an exposed and steep ice pillar. Taking some of
the most impressive lines on the corrie, this new line is a fine addition
to Ben Udlaidh's classics.
Grade
VII+
There are
no routes of VII at the moment in the corrie but the potential is there
for plenty! The overhanging walls on the right side of the corrie will
soon be home to powerful and technically demanding lines of the highest
difficulty and possibly the highest quality. These lines will feature
very steep hooking and "tufting" possibly using some small ice fangs,
which sometimes appear. They require a very good freeze and lots of snow
to be in condition due to their extreme angle. One potential problem (for
some) may be the soundness of the rock in this area, which is blocky and
can be very loose in places But given a good freeze and a thoughtful approach
to both axe placements and protection, this should only add to the adventurous
feel. Good luck!
Dave MacLeod
21/12/2001
More
information
The guidebook
covering Ben Udlaidh is the SMC's Arran, Arrochar and The Southern Highlands
(1997)
Many of the
recent new routes can be found in the SMC Journal 2001 (No. 192)
Updated reports
of recent activities and conditions on Ben Udlaidh can often be found
on Alan Kimber's website www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk
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