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In my opinion many of Scotland's winter routes are comparable with the big faces of the Alps, if not in scale then certainly in effort required to climb them.

There's no getting the first telephrique up and skiing down to do your route, toping out, rapping back to your skis and being back in the bar for dinner and drinks!

Scottish routes require strength, both physical and of character if you're to succeed, along with a pair of strong legs to carry you repeatedly to its remote crags until conditions are right.

The skills required are extensive, everything from winter driving, navigation, weather and avalanche forecasting, plus the ability to survive some hellish weather, and on top of that climb onsight and ground-up in the worst onsighting and ground up conditions you could ask for.

Self-reliance gives an edge not found on many alpine routes these days, after all there are no red rescue choppers buzzing us looking for business in Scotland - yet!

Throw into this the oldest winter climbing history, the characters, fatty food, and you have one of the wildest red-blooded climbing locations on the planet - our very own Patagonia.

So here is a very small selection of routes that I feel give that big alpine flavor. But remember that any route that you might not climb is an big adventure climb, whether the summit is almost within your grasp or a mile away.


  ROUTE GRADE HEIGHT STYLE AREA

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Central Buttress VI, 7 250m Mixed Beinn Eighe
Big, bad, and with a reputation and history. Tons of easy 'alpine' climbing up this big buttress, with a few stings waiting for you.

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Gemini VI, 6 300m Ice Ben Nevis
Classic steep ice, with tons of character and exposure. Take good quality ice gear for belays, including long and short screws, bulldogs and a small selection of rock gear.

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Mitre Ridge V, 6 220m Mixed Beinn a'Bhuird, Cairngorms
Classic Chamonix climbing, a long way from anywhere, gives this a scale totally out of proportion to it's height of difficulty. The climbing is very easy for the grade.

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Orion Direct V, 5 400m Ice Ben Nevis
Minimal pro, big face, bigger air! Comparable to any of the big classic North walls of the Alps. A rite of passage..

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Observatory Buttress V, 5 340m Mixed Ben Nevis
Seems far longer then the guidebook says, especially if you end up climbing into the night. Take a good selection of pro from screws and ice hooks right through to pegs, wires and hexs - hopefully something will go in somewhere!!
No Image Available Route Major IV, 5 280m Mixed Carn Etchachan
Like being on the Jorrase in winter. A big wall feel with moderately hard climbing that will keep you thinking. Although only a few hours from the ski lodge café you can easily feel 'out there' on this crag.
No Image Available Centre Post III 400m Ice Creag Meagaidh
Harder then the North Face of the Droites - but then again modern gear means that's not hard anymore anyway! Classic ice face with plenty of variation. Make sure you have a good selection of screws and hooks and always try to climb within your limit. Scottish ice routes aren't for falling off!

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Castle Ridge III 600m Mixed Ben Nevis
Perhaps Scotland's second greatest classic Alpine route after the Cullin Ridge. Get on it early to avoid the crowds. Read up on the history so you know who's been ahead of you.

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