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The great corrie spread out far below, glistening as the early morning sun touched the rocks that were wet from the overnight rain. A thin white line split the topmost cliffs, the rushing water looking solid and immobile at this distance. Beside where that water slowed and spread, forming pools in the flat peat and heather bottom of the corrie I'd camped the night before, looking out across the deep cleft of the Lairig Ghru to the bulky mass of Ben MacDui. Now I was high on a rocky ridge that soared upwards into the sky. The dark black oval of Lochain Uaine lay beneath my feet with the soaring spire of its namesake peak rising high above in a sweep of jagged, broken rock.

I went on up the rough slopes, revelling in the sunshine, the beauty of the mountains and the freedom to be here and the freedom of being here, of being able to wander freely in the hills, going where I wished, seeking out what lay round enticing corners, peeking into hidden niches and exploring everything offered by this glorious wild country.

The ridge ended suddenly and there, just a few metres away, lay the summit of Cairn Toul. Here, unsurprisingly, the solitude of the day was broken and I was soon joined by two others, ascending from their camp in Glen Geusachan. Talk initially was of the wonderful landscape of the Cairngorms that spread out all around us but it soon turned darker as the shadow that lies over all walkers was mentioned: the foot and mouth outbreak.

My companions had come up from England to escape the closures still prevalent down there. Yes, they said, you could walk in some places, as long as you used certain access points, stuck to certain footpaths and returned to designated points. But regimented, controlled walking was not what they wanted so they'd come to the Highlands to walk in freedom.

Understandably the debate over the foot and mouth closures has concentrated on regaining access, driven mainly by the need to bring visitors back and rescue the hard pressed economies of the hills. Why people go to the hills, what it means and why it is necessary has tended to be forgotten, though some writers, like Dave Hewitt in his excellent running commentary on the crisis, have touched on this. Now that we have, at least in Scotland, a breathing space to consider what has happened I think it's important to look beyond the economic arguments and consider the less tangible reasons for restoring access and ensuring that it is never lost again.

Over a hundred years ago John Muir wrote "thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out that going to the mountains is going home; that wildness is a necessity." For many of us that last phrase resonates with truth and meaning. "Wildness is a necessity". Not a hobby, not a casual pursuit, not a fashionable activity. A necessity. Necessary in order to feel whole, to feel free, to feel able to cope with the complexities and restrictions of the modern world. One of the great insults of the foot and mouth debacle was the dismissal of walking and climbing as unimportant, trivial, just hobbies that people could abandon for something else. No mention here of mental and spiritual renewal or physical well being.

An essential component of wildness is freedom; freedom to go where and when you like, freedom from the rules and regulations that govern the world of work and urban living. Take that freedom away and the wildness disappears with it. That's why disinfection points, controlled access, a plethora of notices and all the other attempts to regulate access to the hills are so objectionable. They destroy the freedom of the hills, the sense of adventure and the sense of responsibility that goes with mountain exploration even for those who stick to footpaths.

My two companions on Cairn Toul needed that freedom, that's why they were in the Cairngorms and not the English or Welsh hills. The absence of visitors even in villages and other "permitted" places at the height of the crisis showed that others felt so too, even those who don't walk far or venture high into the hills. For them, as interviews and letters in the press have made clear, the countryside, even farmed lowland countryside, represents a freedom that is lacking in cities. So when the country roads are lined with Keep Out notices people stay away. Just knowing that they can't stop for a picnic or to wander a few hundred yards to a riverbank or into a forest means they no longer feel free and no longer want to be there.

Days in the hills are restorative, a way of slowing, relaxing, unwinding, and shedding the stresses of daily life. Watching a buzzard wheeling overhead, figuring out the next move on a rock climb, gazing into a rippling burn, navigating carefully across a mist-shrouded hillside all set you firmly in the present where nothing matters beyond the moment and where you are responsible for yourself. This I think is far more conducive to health and well being than any amount of happy pills, sleeping potions or other chemical substitutes. A day in the hills, even a physically exhausting one, can lead to feelings of energy and renewed confidence in your ability to cope with every day life.

Indeed, perhaps it is the physically exhausting, physically challenging days that are the most beneficial because they provide something not usually found in most people's daily lives. Facing real challenges in uncontrolled wild country can have a marvellously recuperative effect. Just how good can be seen from the results of a two-week wilderness trip in 1972 on which fifty-one patients from the Oregon State Hospital all suffering from serious mental illness were taken backpacking, river rafting and rock climbing. Some of these people had been in the hospital for over ten years; all were felt to be incurable. However it was hoped that the trip would help them to come to terms with themselves and feel at least some degree of achievement and self-fulfilment. The results were astonishing and far beyond what was expected. Over half the group improved so much they didn't need to return to hospital.

As well as helping you stay mentally well-balanced going to the hills is also of course a superb way to keep physically healthy. It will never be known just how many individuals have suffered in mind or body because of their forced absence from the hills or how much this will cost the health service.

Yet how easily the hills were "closed", how suddenly we were told to stay away, as though going to the wilds was an irrelevancy, something that mattered little to individuals or society. Most land managers, including those who were believed to hold land on behalf of everybody but who have proved to be no better than private owners, gave no thought to the needs of those who use the wilds. Farming became the only activity worthy of support or even consideration, even though it was clear from the outset for those who bothered to look into the matter that keeping people off the hills would have no effect on the spread of foot and mouth. The knee-jerk reaction was to shut the land, claiming that walkers and climbers could spread a disease they had no contact with.

To prevent this happening again, to ensure that wild country is always available as a necessary counter to Muir's "over-civilized" world, the hills need to be viewed as belonging to everybody, to being there for everybody and not as the private playthings of the rich or the property of empire-building conservation bodies. The rights of access to wild land should be absolute. The freedom of the hills has proved to be alarmingly fragile. We need to ensure that it is strengthened.

Chris Townsend
19/7/2001

 

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An Garbh Choire
Pic: Chris Townsend


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Camp in Garbh Choire
Pic: Chris Townsend


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Ben Macdui from the edge of Coire an Lochain Uaine
Pic: Chris Townsend


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Lochain Uaine and Sgurr an Lochain Uaine
Pic: Chris Townsend

Read other features by Chris Townsend

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Cairngorms National Park

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