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7th May
New venue today. A 40 minute drive saw us at the top of Kloof gorge, about to sample one of Kwa Zulu Natals premier sport climbing venues - The Boneyard. Eight MCSA members greeted us, including two very pleasant local hotshots, Greg and Scott and the slightly eccentric Thomas (complete with his fluorescent Leiderhosen!) After the solitude of Umfolozi, The Boneyard seemed positively buzzing with people. Apparently the majority of South Africa's younger climbers are primarily into sport climbing, which helps explain the popularity of this gorge. The climbing here was almost quarry like and the flat holds meant a pump came on hard and fast!

The routes were good and long, so after six or so climbs, our arms had felt like they had earned a break. In French grading the routes here started at about 6a, up to about 7b+, with a few traditional lines between. Later we made our way to the climbers hut at Monteseel, our next cragging venue. The hut had been renovated recently and the hot showers and fresh bedding were certainly a warming sight. A local hotel provided food and a guard to look after us. The vision of this massive African with a sub machine gun slung over his shoulder was a gentle reminder that we were visiting a politically unstable country. The night rounded off nicely with a video featuring one of South Africa's most prominent and talented climbers, Andy De Klerk. Inspiring footage of climbing, landscape and that great South African camaraderie which I identified every day in our hosts, made me proud to be a part of it all.

8th May
Waking up to the sun streaming across the long grasses, we breakfasted and rushed down to see what the climbing at Monteseel had to offer. This was one of Kwa Zulu Natal's largest and best venues with over 300 routes. The climbs were single to three pitches in length with something for everyone, slabs, pumpy steep walls, overhanging roof cracks, long classic traverses and even the odd sport climb. The views from the crag were superb, with wide valleys and hills spanning into the distance. Music rose up from the townships below and during the day rowdy football matches could be heard. As we climbed throughout the day, Zulu men and women picked their way along the path past the crags and down to the township, many carrying large bundles of collected wood for fires back home.

Later, I wandered back towards the hut, feeling nicely weary from the hot day's climbing. On reaching the dirt road I was greeted by six little black children smiling and waving to me, as their mother, who was brandishing a large machete, sorted her bags out for the long walk home. In the evening, now under the influence of the vivacious host, Greg Woody we trucked off to the infamous "Bush Bar". A huge open fire warmed us, antelope antlers and crocodile skins adorned the walls and the canvas windows flapped in the evening breeze - it felt like a true Croc Dundee style bar, only this was Africa! After several shots of the local drink there was much merry making as we shared pub games with our hosts! And so after a late meal back at the hut, it had to be done - the tradition at Monteseel, to climb a route after midnight with no gear but a rope round the waist. Greg piled us into his truck and blasted off toward the cliff edge, stopping just short of going over the edge. It was a memorable night as we tiptoed our way up one of Monteseel's classic easy lines in pitch darkness.

9th May
Sadly I fear the end of the Meet is nearing. Gavin and Kate rush off for another early start, as do some of the other team members. Dave and I decide to visit a classic 12 on another section of the cliff but these plans are soon put paid to, when poised on the cliff edge, three dogs snarl and leap at us in a decidedly unfriendly manner. We back off. It's a relaxing last day at Monteseel, Tessa leads last night's climb in the daylight and I'm convinced it felt easier in the dark. Dave Rogers takes it in his stride when he finds himself teetering up a dirty, bold slab climb, Ryan takes our host, the gentle giant Carl, up No Hands (14), a classic with a fun offwidth to finish and Ruth calmly solos another of the easier classics. I don't see much of the others who are packing in the routes elsewhere. After lunch we pack up and head back to our favourite home - the Gans's.

Jo George
30/5/2002

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Jo's diary continues next week

 

 

 

See larger pic
Ruth at Kloof Gorge - Kwa Zulu Natal's premier sport climbing venue



See larger pic
Monteseel - one of the area's biggest and best climbing venues with more than 300 routes



See larger pic

A helping hand for Ryan from Carl topping out at Monteseel


All pics by Jo George



 




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