|
Part of the reason for this lingering uncertainty has been a somewhat
dismissive attitude to the importance of our most significant ascents
in the past. Furthermore, this tendency to downplay our biggest
achievements has come not only from the often blamed climbing media
but from within the Scottish climbing scene itself.
Such a self conscious and awkward approach may be quite rightfully
borne out of a feeling that Scotland has often lagged behind the
rest of the UK and the world in terms of athletic level and progress
in climbing. Another reason is undoubtedly that with too few climbers
around with the ability to repeat the hardest routes of the day
and even fewer hard routes to climb in Scotland than in other countries,
it is almost impossible to gauge just where we are and how far we've
come. Without new blood to come to the fray, this situation is clearly
a downward spiral of disillusionment and de-motivation.
However, it seems the wheels of progress are finally beginning
to creak and grind on another quarter turn. The hardest routes in
the various climbing disciplines have, in general, changed more
in the last three years than in the last 15. All around the country
small and discreet bands of climbers appear to be getting fired
up, their new found motivation fuelled by the changing fashions
in the sport providing a breath of fresh air. Some of the territorialism
and secretiveness about the resources of new rock out there have
been swept aside in the realisation that the sharing of knowledge
and motivation is ultimately more productive for everyone.
So, without any more perspectives on how we got here, here is where
we are - the top ten hardest routes in each discipline as far as
can be deduced or experienced given the subjectivity of grading
systems and the current repeats scene. The lists are entirely based
on my own opinion (having done a good few of the listed climbs),
reading and correspondence with the county's top activists.
There is clearly potential for widespread argument about my choices,
indeed part of my motivation to write on the subject was to attract
attention and debate. It remains clear that the only credible way
to really argue with the list is to go out and climb them all, or
climb another ten new routes at a higher grade!
Trad>Sport>Bouldering>Winter>Sport
winter>
|
Traditional - Requiem was the hardest route in the world
when first climbed.
