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1. Steall Appeal F8b Steall, Glen Nevis
FA: Malcolm Smith 1993
Repeats: No chance!
Style: a brutal crux move, almost certainly the hardest move ever
done on Scottish rock. An eight foot gap between a jug and a sloper
is overcome using the poorest of pinch holds imaginable.
Comments: Widely considered to be 8b+ and very height dependant.
The crux move might be around Font 8a.
2. Merchant of Menace F8b Balmashanner Quarry
FA: Stuart Cameron 1993
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: sustained on poor slopers and slopey crimps.
Comments: unlikely to see a repeat anytime soon as it's never, ever
dry and in good condition (not to mention the less than beautiful
surroundings). Has well and truly rebuffed all repeat attempts.
3. Digital Quartz F8b Glen Ogle
FA: Iain Pitcairn 1993
Repeats: MacLeod
Style: a hard crux on tiny crimps, with clean footwork playing an
important role next to pure finger strength.
Comments: Essentially straightforward once your fingers are strong
enough. Siege tactics will not work though due to the frustrating
lack of dry and cool conditions.
4. Voodoo Magic F8b Dumbuck
FA: Andy Gallagher 1997
Repeats: Oliver Froideval, MacLeod (following the loss of crucial
holds)
Style: pumpy 7c+ to the crux followed by a 'proper' 6c move on small
edges and all at 50 degrees overhanging.
Comments: Not over even past the crux as shown by Dave Redpath when
he fell twice with fingers touching the chain. Quite steady for
the very fit though.
5. So Be It F8a+ Dumbuck
FA: Dave MacLeod 2000
Repeats: Redpath
Style: Short but very powerful and technical. Clean technique is
required to hold the massive swing on letting go of a toe hook past
the crux.
Comments: Was previously predicted at 8b+, before good redpoint
technique unravelled the complex sequence.
6. Leopold F8a+ Steall, Glen Nevis
FA: Murray Hamilton 1993
Repeats: MacLeod, Waterton
Style: A 30 metre crack line involving clever foot jamming to ease
the crux and a series of tricky sections above to keep you awake
before the top finally comes.
Comments: Dave Birkett found a potential hand jam method for the
crux, possibly removing the need to have strong fingers to hold
a wide pinch used by most. Should eventually become the start to
an awesome 8c if anyone picks up where Cubby left off.
7. Cease Fire F8a+ Glen Ogle
FA: Dave MacLeod 2001
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: A thin 6c move on positive finger pockets after a pumpy start.
Comments: Originally predicted at 8b but straightforward with the
right sequence and enough finger strength.
8. Spiral Tribe F8a+ Glen Ogle
FA: Duncan MacCallum 1993
Repeats: Cuthbertson, Smith, Redpath, MacLeod plus several others
Style: a technical wall to a poor rest, then an easy 6c move to
a bucket.
Comments: Press your heel into that foothold on the crux and it's
easy, right?
9. The Niche F8a/8a+ Balmashanner
FA: Graeme Livingstone 1992
Repeats: Cameron, Smith, others?
Style: a burly rockover and deep lock off a poor sidepull (edge
of a borehole). Basically a Font 7b+ at 15 feet.
Comments: Subject to the same poor conditions and dire situation
as Merchant and hence not very popular.
10. Off The Beaten Track F8a Glen Ogle
FA: Paul Thorburn 1993
Repeats: more than five
Style: reasonably sustained but a definite crux on a small pocket.
This move is still only easy 6c.
Comments: It's a very depressing situation that an 8a still makes
it into the top ten. Let's do something about it NOW!
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