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1. My Evil Twin Font 8a+ Sandyhills, Dumfries
FA: Paul Savage 2002
Repeats: MacLeod
Style: burly wrestling with a steep granite prow. A strong body
and limbs help considerably, but steel fingers are still essential,
especially if you use Paul's method.
Comments: The main challenge is working out a feasible sequence.
Once this is done, it comes together.
2. King Kong Font 8a Dumbarton Rock
FA: Dave MacLeod 2002
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: A very sustained linkup of three existing and hard problems
to give 12 metres and 21 moves of climbing at 50 degrees overhanging.
Comments: Font 7b + Font 7c + Font 7a+ = ?
3. Pongo Sit Start Font 8a Dumbarton Rock
FA: Malcolm Smith 1996
Repeats: MacLeod
Style: A beefy overhanging crack. Shoulders like pneumatic levers
are essential to hold the weird press move!
Comments: The crux involves a movable block hold. Not too bad if
you can use your brain to figure out a good sequence.
4. Chinese Democracy Font 8a Thirlstane
FA: Paul Savage 2001
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: a long traverse into a sick and contorted rockover finish.
Comments: A characteristic unusual and eliminate problem from Sav.
Although it remains unrepeated, it may be easier than the grade
if a more sensible method is eventually applied (both jumping or
a burly mantel are possible). Time will tell. It remains, however,
that the way Paul did it is obscene!
5. Knife Party Font 7c+ Clifton
FA: Paul Savage 2002
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: Granite slopeyness which looks impressive, if close to the
ground.
Comments: Was originally given 8a by the man who is no stranger
to pulling down on Font 8s.
6. The Nuclear Button Font 7c+ The Brack
FA: Dave MacLeod 2002
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: powerful pulling out of the sit start into a frustrating
and long dyno which requires focus and mind control.
Comments: About 4 6c moves in a row, which might include some 7a
moves!
7. Press Gang Font 7c+ Sky Pilot, Glen Nevis
FA: Dave MacLeod 2002
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: Pure power on shoulder presses and finger undercuts. Get
angry and it isn't too bad!
Comments: Thought by Cubby after his attempts to be Font 8a.
8. Axeman Font 7c+ Glen Croe
FA: Dave MacLeod 2002
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: Brutal undercutting, crimping and dynoing. Attention to body
position helps.
Comments: Feels unlikely until you do it.
9. The Hotline Font 7c+ The Brack
FA: Dave MacLeod 2002
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: Very powerful crimping for two moves, into a shoulder popping
sideways lunge for a jug. Uncontrollable swing until you master
the Kung Fu.
Comments: Always tantalisingly close but punishing if you have to
take many attempts.
10. Silverback Font 7c Dumbarton Rock
FA: Dave MacLeod 2002
Repeats: unrepeated
Style: if you can scuffle into the tempting crimp on the arete,
it's a huge lock to the top. Feels very unlikely.
Comments: Positive holds will appeal to the strong fingered. Again,
it's depressing that a 7c makes it into the top ten!
Thanks to the addition of Dave MacLeod's new problem at No. 2 Catch
22 has been relegated...
Catch 22 Font 7c Sky Pilot, Glen Nevis
FA: Dave Cuthbertson 2000
Style: An easy looking lunge for a seemingly good sloper, until
you actually try and hang it!
Comments: Utterly frustrating. The sit start will add even more
quality and frustration when it gets done.
Note: I have excluded several problems reported by Si O'Connor
in 1998-2000 in Glen Nevis, which would form the top five or so
in the above list. In the absence of descriptions for these problems
which make any sense to mankind and given that Si has resisted countless
attempts by all the main activists to get more information from
him, there is no other option.
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