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1. The Tempest M10 Glen Coe
FA: Neil Gresham 2001 Repeats: Deans
Style: A 30metre technical stamina nightmare, featuring tiny flat
hooks and an overhanging thin ice finish. Gear (pegs and hammered
wires) was preplaced and quickdraws left insitu.
Comments: This tough sounding route is likely to become a testpiece
for future followers of this very recent offshoot from traditional
winter climbing. Amusingly, it is also likely to be onsighted and
downgraded to VII,6 when the ice stretches to the base of the wall
(which is does every few seasons). An impressive achievement for
a non-local and sure to have a positive effect on the interest in
Scotland form mixed climbers internationally in the future.
2. Logical Progression M9 Ben Vorlich
FA: Mark Garthwaite 1999
Repeats: unrepeated Style: Similar to the above with preplaced gear
on a viciously overhanging and strenuous crack line.
Comments: The first route to express the desire of a few winter
climbers to start this new discipline. A fine achievement from a
man than can hang on for a long time! Possibly the biggest pump
in the whole list, summer or winter. The route saw off a psyched
up Neil Gresham shortly after the first ascent.
3… There are currently no other routes around which have
been intentionally conceived and climbed in the sport style. It
remains to be seen whether there will be many more.
Well, there's not much more to say other than now you know what
is out there, get out and climb them, or at least enjoy dreaming
about it! Don't forget the subjectivity and ultimately the pointlessness
of the list though. If you seriously intend climbing these horror
shows, let the list be nothing more than a stepping stone on a route
to enjoyment, rather than an end in itself.
I will rewrite the lists as soon as they are rendered sufficiently
out of date. In the meantime if you have any burning issues or corrections
to voice, email newsandreports@scottishoutdoors.com and I will sort
it out. Be safe.
Dave MacLeod
26/9/2002
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