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Even if
you are not particularly interested in geology, you can hardly miss the
striking appearance of many of the hills in this far-off, north western
province. Take a base level of a hard rock (in this case the wonderful
and ancient Lewissian gneiss), slap on some softer rock (the reddish Torridonian
sandstone), then sit back for about 2.5 billion years. So you will see
the pillar-like red rocks of Suilven apparently shooting up from a more
level layer of grey rock, softer surrounding rocks having been ground
down by wind, rain and frosts over the millennia.
For this
area, we can hardly do better than to quote W.H. Murray - "The view from
Suilven's three tops has an all-absorbing feature - the numberless tarns
that light the moor, a light than changes hourly with the skies, from
black or white to royal blue." (Scotland's Mountains, SMC, 1987).
The land
over which approaches have to made in order to climb Suilven does not
readily produce fertile soil; there are many acres of bog and countless
small bodies of water. Fortunately, good tracks lead most of the way and
although the walk is a long one it is for the most part easy to follow.
Start from
Lochinver on the coast and take the road to Glencanisp Lodge. A good path
continues up Glen Canisp, crosses a bridge, then at a cairn (167 198)
we leave the path for a fainter one heading over rough, boggy ground towards
the mass of the mountain. Walking between two lochans the climb leads
steeply to the Bealach Mor. From the bealach easy scrambling leads WNW
to the rounded summit of Caisteal Liath (the grey castle).
Return to
the bealach, from where the middle peak of Meall Mheadhonach may be gained
by exposed but easy scrambling. The south east peak, the pointy one of
Meall Bheag, requires more respect however and requires climbing experience.
Return to Lochinver by the approach route.
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