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The unbeatable
combination of sea and mountains is never more appreciated than here,
on the Coigach peninsula north of Ullapool. The picture shows the view
over the Summer Isles, and the keen-eyed may even pick out the ferry,
left of the cairn. The drive is easily worth the effort. This is eagle
country. In May 2000 I described the ascent of Sgurr an Fhidhleir, which
is also taken in with this walk, but here we make several ascents from
a seaward approach.
Start from
a lay-by on the shoulder of the hill a few hundred metres north of Culnacraig
(061 043). Head over the moor and up gently steepening slopes to the first
top of the day, Cairn Conmheal (541m). The cairn lies at the top of a
steep arête, the Acheninver Pinnacle. Now head inland along the ridge
then down to a flat col with several strange, weathered rocks of sandstone.
From the
col climb the slopes to the second top, Beinn nan Caorach (649m). Its
ridge then leads gradually northeast in just under a kilometre to the
top at 648m. There are superb views of the battleship bow of Sgurr an
Fhidhleir, the next target of the day. Descend SSE to the col then up
to the Sgurr, gradually turning to the ENE. The views from its summit
at 705m are not for the faint-hearted!
Now descend,
picking your way down rocky tables of sandstone, at first south, then
southeast, to gain the col at about 545m. Above lies the convex slope
leading to the summit ridge of Ben More Coigach. The actual summit lies
almost a kilometre along, on a buttress jutting out north from the ridge.
At 743m it is the highest elevation gained on this walk.
Go back to
the ridge and continue WSW to the final top, Garbh Choireachan (738m).
A little way further the end of the ridge is reached, with descent towards
Culnacraig. The summit ridge of Ben More Coigach is narrow and fairly
level, and though scrambly in parts is not difficult. A path may also
be taken along its north flank for those wishing to avoid all rocks.
Cross the
moor above Culnacraig and below the gorge and waterfall of the Allt nan
Coisiche to regain the road just before the starting point. If time is
short it is also possible to descend into the coire from the summit of
Sgurr an Fhidhleir but the going is unpleasant in places with tussocky
grass.
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