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Alien Rock 1, Edinburgh
****
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Opened: 1994
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This successful wall was built by an enterprising group of climbers, two of whom had a background in ship building. In 1994 they transferred their skills and built Alien Rock in an old church by the sea in Leith.
As one of the largest (1000sqm) and best lead walls in Scotland, it has become deservedly popular with climbers operating at all levels - beginners to competition level.
The space within the church has been well used throughout and offers a good variety of interesting walls at varying angles, a comfortable seating gallery, a shop and reception area.
However, on busy winter days, the wall can become very crowded and claustrophobic, and queuing for routes is the norm. With the opening of Alien Rock 2, perhaps it will help alleviate this problem somewhat.
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Overall verdict:
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Without doubt Scotland's finest lead wall. Interesting features and good for all abilities.
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By bus: No's 10, 16 and 17 will take you there. A No 11 stops close by and the C3 Sprinter passes by - ask the driver to stop at Newhaven Harbour.
By train: Take any major train route into Waverly Station, Edinburgh City Centre. From here, jump on a bus.
By car:Check out their website for more details.
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Address:
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Alien Rock, Old St.Andrews Church, 8 Pier Place, Newhaven, Edinburgh.
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Tel:
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0131 552 7211
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Web:
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www.alienrock.co.uk
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Wall Description:
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Bouldering
The bouldering wall sits upstairs in its own little room. The main wall section consists of moulded resin panels with bolt ons, featured hand holds, tufas and a small roof. Some good problems and traverses can be had here.
A vertical wall offers easier bouldering, while a 45 degree overhanging board provides many mean test pieces. The room has thick crash matting throughout, so no chance of injuring oneself. A good training or warm up facility, which unfortunately can get quite dusty and warm.
Easiest problem: No set problems
Hardest problem: Font 8a+ - apparently Malcolm Smiths
Classic of the crag: The tufa problem at British 6a
Lead/ top-rope walls
The interior of this church holds 1000 sqm of wall space. The walls are 10.5 metres in height and consist of slabs, vertical, overhanging (the steepest walls overhang by 4.5 - 5metres) and roofs.
A steep and impressive wave shaped wall looms in front of the main entrance, providing pumpy climbing, leading to the roof. The panels are highly featured resin panels with bolt ons and features for hand and foot holds. On offer are many excellent features, including a large layback flake, sculpted finger pockets, tufa aretes, bolt on stalactites, bridging corners and finger & fist cracks.
There are off-vertical and vertical walls with larger holds for the beginner. The intermediate climber is well catered for with the bulk of lead/top rope routes being in the 6a/6a+ category.
Easiest route: f4
Hardest route: f7c (at time of writing)
Classic feature of the crag: The huge roof - it is one of the biggest roofs on any of the Scottish walls.
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Opening Hours:
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(Winter - 1st October to end April)
Mon-Thurs: 1200-2300, Fri: 1200-2200, Sat/Sun: 1000-2100.
(Summer 1st May-end Sept)
Mon-Fri: 1200-2200, Sat/Sun: 1000-1900
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Entry Fee:
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Adult Peak(after 4pm) £5, Off Peak £3.50.
*Discounted adult members Peak £4.50, Off Peak £3.00.
Concessions (UB40, students etc) Peak £4.50 (except at weekends when cost is £5), Off Peak £3.50
*Discounted Concessions Peak £4.00 (except at weekends when cost is £5), Off Peak £3.00. Under 16's Peak £3, Off Peak £3.00
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Entry Requirements:
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Must be a registered member and sign a disclaimer. Under 14's must be supervised by an adult. 14-18 year olds can go through an assessment, and if they pass can obtain a parental consent form, they may use the wall unsupervised.
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Equipment Hire:
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Harnesses for hire and loan of belay device. |
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Other facilities on offer:
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n/a
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Showers:
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Yes
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Food:
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Snacks available at reception, plus fresh tea and coffee. Vending machine for cold drinks. Seating arrangement in viewing gallery.
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Kids Club:
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Yes, for those 8 and over. Weekend sessions - Sat and Sun 10.00-12.00 and 13.00-15.00. £8 per session for first 3 visits, thereafter £6 for regulars (or £4 if they have their own equipment). Places are limited so it is advisable to book in advance. |
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Courses/Instruction on offer:
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Beginners Course - Teaches you how to climb indoors safely. 2 hour session includes entry, equipment hire and instructor. Cost - £18.
Improvers - can be arranged.
Advanced Techniques - can be arranged.
Groups - Instructors and equipment provided for groups.
Under 16's - 1½ hr group sessions, available on weekdays before 6pm and at weekends. £45 per group (up to 6).
Adults - 2 hr group sessions, available on weekday evenings and weekends. £90 per group (up to 6).
1½ hr group sessions available on weekday evenings. £60 per group (up to 6).
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Shop:
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Yes
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Famous names who train there:
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Anyone who is 'anyone' trained here - Malcolm Smith, April Marr 'The Alien Star', Rick Campbell, Gary Latter, Paul Thorborn to name a few. Younger talent includes the all-rounders, Sam Chinnery and Ali Coull, the talented comp climber, Sadie Renwick, and the super flexy Niall McNair.
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Best Nearest Pub(s):
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The Harbour Inn for a laid back atmosphere and some folk music. A mere one minute walk away -opposite Harry Ramsdens (turn right out of door).
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Best Nearest Food:
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Devotees of Harry Ramsdens will be pleased to know they need only race across the street - mind the buses though! If it's a pint and pie you prefer then hang a left for the Star Bank, or a right for the Harbour Inn, both are only a short stroll away. For curry lovers, Scotland's no.1 curry house, The Britannia Spice is nearby.
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The overhanging lead walls are sure to give a good pump
Larger Picture
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