Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore
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Opened: 1994
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This small wall lies within the main building at Scotland's National centre - Glenmore Lodge. Although primarily used by the Lodge for teaching and training purposes, it is also open to the general public. This is useful, as it's close proximity to the North Corries in the Cairngorms makes a session here a good alternative to sitting in cafés when stormed off the hill in winter.
Using the extensive 'Rock Fax' of marked routes and problems from f4 to f7b, many hours of endless fun can be had. The facility is well lit, heated and maintained, and the walls themselves offer plenty of interest.
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Overall verdict:
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Although slightly dated now, the wall offers good bouldering and lead climbing, and is worth a visit if in the area.
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By bus: National bus service (Citylink) will take you into Aviemore town centre. From here, during the winter season, a shuttle bus service runs past Glenmore Lodge to the ski centre at certain times during the day. Out of season, there is no bus service to Glenmore .
By train: Nearest train station is Aviemore town centre. From here it's a 5 mile walk up hill or 10 minute taxi ride.
By car: Coming in from the west, head towards Aviemore and take the 1st turning right before reaching the town centre - signposted Glenmore. Follow this road for 5 miles to Glenmore, looking out for the Glenmore Lodge sign post on the left. Up this road for ¾ mile, the centre is on the right.
From the east, drive through the town centre and on exiting Aviemore, turn left to Glenmore (after the BP garage). Follow directions as above.
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Address:
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Glenmore Lodge, Glenmore, Invernesshire, PH22 1QU
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Tel:
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01479 861256
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Web:
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www.glenmorelodge.org.uk
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Wall Description:
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Lead and Bouldering walls
Climbing here has a 'basement' feel as you descend a ladder to get to the walls.
The DR lead and boulder walls are heavily featured, resin panels with bolt on holds, the highest of which is approx 6 metres, overhanging gently near its top. Other walls are vertical, and a cave area offers more strenuous roof boulder problems. There are a lot of interesting features - tufas, pinches, flakes, finger cracks, pockets, undercuts and crimps, which offer some tricky problems, often pumpier than they first appear. The routes are set up for leading with lower-offs in place. The floor area has fixed padded matting and three moveable crash pads for bouldering.
Easiest problem: French 4
Hardest problem: French 7b
Classic of the crag: The tufa pinch
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Opening Hours:
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Daily 9am-10pm (though call reception as the wall will be closed while the centre are using it).
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Entry Fee:
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£3 for adults, £1.50 for students.
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Entry Requirements:
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Must sign a disclaimer and use own equipment.
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Equipment Hire:
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No. Rock boots can be hired from West Coast Outdoor Leisure in the High Street, Fort William.
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Other facilities on offer:
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The gym is also open to the public and sports medicine physiotherapy is available on a booking system.
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Showers:
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Yes
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Food:
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A basic selection of snacks are available at reception and the bar upstairs serves drinks (hot and alcoholic) and bar food in the evenings.
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Kids Club:
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No
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Courses/Instruction on offer:
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There is no set programme of courses or instruction but this can be arranged. Instructors with the Single Pitch Supervisor Award are available to take groups for £15 per hour.
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Shop:
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Small shop, sells climbing chalk.
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Famous names who train there:
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Many respected Mountain Guides and instructors trained there, including the likes of Alan Fyffe, Chris Forest and Andy Cunningham. More recently the younger lads such as ex night watchman, Dave Hollinger have trained there.
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Best Nearest Pub(s):
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Obliged to say, the Lodge bar itself, Certainly the nearest. Otherwise, Aviemore town centre has plenty on offer.
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Best Nearest Food:
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Serious coffee drinkers should get over to Café Mambo in Aviemore's town centre. This trendy 'hang-out' joint also offers simple food. For a great bowl of soup, good breakfasts and other meals & snacks, head to Mountain Man Supplies climbing shop in the town centre. In winter a nice wood fire and a stash of climbing literature is very welcoming.
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